Friday, October 26, 2012

Hurricane Sandy, Dowry Creek, Belhaven, North Carolina


     Life on a sailboat is not all sunshine. Hurricane Sandy has been in the forecast during the past week and has been weighing heavily on every boater's mind. We listened to forecasts on the Single Side Band radio with early hopes that it wouldn't materialize. We listened intently each morning as our weather guru Chris Parker painted a scenario that grew more ominous with each passing day. Finally we had to make a decision. Will we be safe here? Will our anchor drag? Will a tidal surge affect us?

 Inevitably, we decide to move to a safer harbor with hopes that Chris's forecast is accurate. He believes that this hurricane will skirt our area of Cape Hatteras and give us only tropical storm force winds of 50-60 mph! That's certainly enough to deal with both physically and emotionally. Right now we are preparing by stripping Simple Life of canvas and tying extra lines. We know this will be at least a three day event. It is arriving along with a full moon which will increase water levels. It's the best we can do right now and all we have is hope. Stay tuned...

Wednesday, October 24, 2012

The ICW to Belhaven, North Carolina





     One mention of the Intracoastal Waterway or ICW and most people envision images of a series of narrow canals lined on each side by cement sea walls beginning in Norfolk and ending in Miami. It's even affectionately called the ditch. In reality the ICW does have several army corp of engineer canals, but those canals also link diverse creeks, fresh and salt water rivers teeming with fish and wildlife, bays and larger bodies of water such as Albemarle and Pamlico Sounds in North Carolina which are all part of ICW's north south route.


     Our brief stay at the Great Bridge Dock was a treat for us. For a change because the boat was tied to a dock the anchor didn't need to be deployed. It also gave us the opportunity to socialize with other cruisers and enabled us to re-provision at the nearby grocery store in preparation for the upcoming week of cruising in some of the more isolated areas of the ICW on our way to our destination, Belhaven, NC.

     One well known favorite stop among boaters after Great Bridge is Coinjock Marina. It's probably more favored by power boaters because it's one of the few spots to re-fuel before making the 12 mile Albemarle Sound crossing. It also gave me the opportunity to do laundry, charge the battery bank and most importantly, receive our parting gift...the new Coinjock fly swatter!

     Simple life was freed from the dock at Coinjock after 10:00 AM with a destination of an anchorage in Broad Creek. This would give us good overnight protection from 20 knot winds that were forecast and would offer a convenient anchorage for the Albemarle Sound crossing the following day.
The entrance to Broad Creek is narrow and winding with significant shoaling on both sides. At the creek entrance we relied heavily on Navionics software on the iPad rather than our chart plotter. It simply afforded more detailed depth information. The creek should be renamed Narrow Creek since it has barely enough room for one boat centered between two shorelines. After Joe dropped the anchor he gave the signal to back down to insure that the anchor had hooked. When 4.9 feet appeared on the depth sounder I stopped backing and thought, "OK good enough." Joe returned to the cockpit and asked if I felt it hook. I said,"It's possible but we were probably aground." We were still floating and decided that we'd wait to back down again until the wind shifted to the west and down the length of the creek. That evening one other boat ventured into the creek and quickly ran aground.


     As was forecast, the wind howled all evening. The morning forecast called for small craft warnings and 20-25 knots of wind. We listened to VHF weather radio broadcasts on wave heights in Albemarle Sound which was our itinerary for the day. Wave heights were forecast to diminish after 2:00PM. The wind was still blowing a steady 20 knots as we exited the creek and by the time we reached Albemarle Sound the waves were benign. Simple Life had a good crossing under sail.


     It was sunset and time to anchor in the entrance to the Alligator River for the evening. The entrance to the anchorage was jammed with crab pots and it was impossible to drop the hook anywhere. We headed back out and dropped it in an exposed area behind a large shoal open to the Sound with hopes that it would reduce any wave action that might develop overnight. Since the wind was calm it was absolutely the calmest anchorage we've had during the entire trip!

      The final anchorage before Belhaven, NC was at the end of the Alligator River at the entrance to the man made 21 mile Pungo River Canal which connects the Alligator and Pungo River that feed into Pamlico Sound and the Outer Banks of North Carolina.


     We've dubbed this cruise down the Waterway The Mellow-man's Guide to Passages South. We're not in any rush. We're checking out small towns and getting to know some of the locals and soon there will be plenty of time to push harder as the weather cools and we head offshore to make up lost time.







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Location:North Carolina

Sunday, October 21, 2012

Great Bridge, Virginia




Simple Life at the dock Great Bridge
    After the excitement of our trip from Norfolk and completing the final challenging task of locking in at the Great Bridge Lock, we eagerly looked forward to a rest at the dock.The Great Bridge dock offers a secure tie up (no electric or water) near numerous town amenities. It is considered the last good provisioning site before Beaufort, NC. There was space available and as we made our approach cruisers who had already tied their boats assisted us in tying to the dock. Everyone was friendly and offered tips and information about the area. One cruiser informed us about a weekly farmer's market held in a field near the town dock every Saturday.
   
     After settling in Joe got off the boat while I tidied up, planned dinner. I could hear his laughter as he made new friends with the other cruisers. Occasionally, after spending so much time together we need the company of someone other than ourselves.

     Saturday morning dawned with crisp air and bright blue skies. Perfect weather for a farmers' market! Most farmer's markets that I've been to have been heavy on the fruit and jam side and light on the actual farm produce side. When the actual farmers are there in overalls selling out of the back of their pick up trucks, that's an indication of authenticity! Everything from fresh turkey eggs to a large selection of seasonal vegetables and apples were for sale.

   

One man with whom we stopped to have a chat had only sweet potatoes on his truck bed. He told me to pick some out for no charge. I think he was at the market more for the social aspect than a monetary mission. He also told us to be sure to visit the Great Bridge Heritage Festival that was taking place across the canal. With that advice our plans where in place for the afternoon.
   
     Before heading over there I wanted to squeeze in an hour or so of guitar playing time. Poor Joe has had to listen to me playing the same repertoire of classical pieces for months now and I'm sure he's grown tired of my practice sessions. He decided to check out the festival while giving me some undisturbed playing time. When he returned he told me of meeting a man named Bert Berry at he fair who was a builder of dulcimers. In fact he told Joe that Bruce Hornsbyhttp://www.brucehornsby.com/ had commissioned four of Bert's dulcimers! Joe said, "I think you'd enjoy the fair, there are a few musicians playing on the grounds and Bert hopes you'll come back with me and bring your guitar." The cajolery worked.




The fair was a perfect example of down home authenticity. Folk musicians playing, corn husk doll making lessons, a local beekeeper with a real bee hive, people dressed in period costumes from the Civil War era and numerous  historical based tents.







     We headed over to meet Bert Berry and listen to him perform. It wasn't long before he handed me one of his beauties to try. The dulcimer is stringed instrument with frets similar to a folk version of a slide guitar. I caught on quickly and Bert and I played a folk tune together. This was such fun and the highlight of my day! I think Bert enjoyed it as much as I and he asked me to come back on Sunday.


     By mid afternoon a cocktail party was planned for 6:00 PM. This kind of event gets skippers and crews to mix and mingle while swapping information and itineraries. The party lasted well after dark. Laughter subsided, cruisers dispersed. It was nearly 9:00 PM and great fun, but after all...it was "cruisers' midnight."
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Location:Virginia

Monday, October 15, 2012

Norfolk



     As we exited the lower Chesapeake Bay and entered Norfolk, Virginia on the Elizabeth River our peaceful cruising lives changed dramatically. With the Naval Shipyard to port, mixed in with commercial tankers backing out of docks, war ships bound for sea, Coast Guard cutters speeding by, barges pushed by tugboats, helicopters hovering overhead, and a sprinkling of pleasure boats we felt as though someone suddenly jarred us awake after a peaceful nap. It was time to sit up straight and pay attention! Without any hard and fast plans made we were scrambling about for the ICW chart book, the binoculars, my glasses! Why are they never around when Joe wants me to look at the chart plotter? Things were slightly tense for a few minutes until we composed ourselves and got the act together. I think we'd been lulled into a false sense of security because we'd made this trip before. But, as we've learned each trip has its challenges and there are plenty of opportunities along the way. Always expect the unexpected...

     It was nearly sunset as we spotted numerous masts at Hospital Point which is a popular anchorage after the Naval Shipyard and directly off the ICW. It was jammed with anchored cruising boats. Since the last rays of daylight were blocked by the buildings of the city we knew that we'd need to select an anchoring spot quickly before dark. After motoring in and around the anchorage in search of a suitable spot with proper swinging room we finally settled on one and lowered the hook. It was acceptable and we looked forward to leaving early in the morning to pick up a free dock in the Portsmouth basin only a few minutes south on the ICW.

     At dawn the anchorage cleared out as cruisers headed to their southerly destinations. We readied dock lines and fenders while motoring toward the Portsmouth dock. It was empty! There was plenty of room to tie up. I steered Simple Life into the narrow basin lined with pilings while Joe gave directions on deck and readied the lines and himself to tie the boat off. A man approached the boat and we thought he was there to assist us but his official business was to keep transients off the docks due to a schooner race scheduled on the weekend. With another fast change of plans we turned the boat out, scrambled for charts, iPad, and binoculars and began our unexpected day of traveling down the ICW. Fortunately, we caught up with the pack of boats that departed at dawn at the first bridge opening.
Simple Life in lock at Great Bridge
     From there we stayed at the back of the pack through three more timed bridge openings and a locking in at the Great Bridge Lock until tying up at another free dock at Great Bridge, Virginia. We made unexpected progress south and still managed to secure a dock in the process. Whew! What fun!
Joe tying Simple Life in the Great Bridge Lock
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Location:Virginia

Sunday, October 14, 2012

Yorktown and Colonial Williamsburg

Locals in Virginia say "If you don't like the weather wait a minute." There's a similar saying in New England. We actually waited a couple of days for clear weather to motor the short distance from Sarah Creek across the York River to take a mooring at the Riverwalk Landing in Yorktown.

     Occasionally, getting to shore from an anchorage location has been quite a long distance as was the situation at Riverwalk Landing in Yorktown. The new high speed 15hp outboard has been a wonderful addition to our cruising inventory for those extra long dinghy rides. Prior to going ashore I like to consult the cruising guide. It mentioned a free historic triangle shuttle with a pick up at Riverwalk Landing with stops at the Yorktown Battlefield, Colonial Williamsburg and the Jamestown Settlement. As usual time was fleeting and it was already noon when we boarded the trolley for Colonial Williamsburg with a walking agenda to the Battlefield later in the afternoon.
The Governor's Palace, Williamsburg
I'd read a few reviews concerning Williamsburg and one reviewer stated that he'd wished he hadn't spent the $40.00 admission fee because tourists can walk the grounds for free! The price of admission basically includes tours of the various buildings. I don't really enjoy tours so we decided to take advantage of the "free" self guided tour since we had only two hours before the last trolley returned to Yorktown.







     The village is well maintained preserving an authentic example of colonial architecture without the distraction of tasteless tourist shops.








     There were a few taverns on Main Street where we would have stopped if time allowed. There was also a garden area being tended by a man and woman dressed in colonial garb where heirloom plants could be purchased.







   At 3:30 we boarded the last trolley for the 13 mile return trip along the scenic Colonial Parkway to the Battlefield. Both the Parkway and the Yorktown Battlefield are part of the National Park System.
An impersonation of A. Wyeth's Christina's World


     The Battlefield is the site where the British General Cornwallis surrendered during the Revolutionary War. Many of the original bunkers have been preserved. Paths lead throughout the site with placards describing the bunkers, redoubts, and canons throughout the park.
Canons line the bunkers of the Battlefield
After touring the Battlefield we followed the path that lead directly onto Main Street in the historic section of Yorktown. This section also had numerous permanent placards describing the historic homes and businesses along the street.

     Although newly constructed, the architecture of the buildings that encompass Riverwalk Landing are in keeping with the colonial atmosphere of the area. We stopped at a restaurant for happy hour before returning to Simple Life for the evening. The locals in the restaurant were friendly and curious about our trip. One even asked if he could do anything for us and offered to take us shopping if needed. It seems that people along the waterway recognize boaters. Perhaps it's our scruffy appearance.





     While walking back to the dinghy a man stopped us to announce that the young man at the Riverwalk Landing pier had just completed a cross country trip on his bike from Oregon to Yorktown! The local newspaper reporter was there along with one other person. We stopped to have a chat with the young man named Hugh Donovan and he told us that he'd begun the trip 72 days earlier and that the route he took was the same one that designed for the TransAmerica Trail in 1976 to celebrate the bicentennial. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/U.S._Bicycle_Route_76 Since then hundreds of bicyclists have followed the same route ending in Yorktown. As we bid goodby we each wished each other well along with good wishes for many new adventures and went along on our separate ways.

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Location:Virginia

Wednesday, October 10, 2012

Sarah Creek, Gloucester Point



Life on a cruising sailboat is a fickle existence. One day it's eighty degrees and the endless drops of sweat bead up on your limbs until you'd wish for a cold front and even welcome it. The following day might usher in a cold front with dampness that's indescribable and chills to the bone. It's a dampness never felt when living on the shore. At times it can seem impossible to find warmth (until the cozy onboard fireplace is lit.)
Weather forecasts last week called for an approaching cold front accompanied by high winds. The original plan was to pick up a mooring ball on Riverwalk Landing at Yorktown and visit the historic triangle of Yorktown, Williamsburg and the Jamestown settlement. However, since wind protection is minimal in The York River Joe decided that it would make sense to wait out the weather anchored across the river in Sarah Creek, at Gloucester Point, Virginia. He'd read that nearby Yacht Haven Marina welcomed transient boaters from the anchorage and allowed usage of their facilities for laundry and showers. There is also an excellent well stocked ship's store on site.

When the anchor was set the first order of business was laundry. After two weeks our accumulated mounds of laundry had become overwhelming. Upon arrival I'd been looking forward to a nice dinner ashore at the marina restaurant where I could dress up a bit and not look as though I'd just stepped off a boat. However, laundry chores took longer than expected. One of the marina dryers malfunctioned after a 45 minute dry cycle and the clothes were still damp. It was nice to have the extra time ashore. While waiting for the laundry Joe and I sat on a porch swing overlooking the water. I did some reading when Joe wasn't interrupting me and watched several Great Blue Herons search the mud flats for their afternoon snack.

Joe spent time strolling around the docks and actually spotted a sturgeon which is a prehistoric looking fish that was recently added to the endangered species list in February this year. See the link below
http://en.wikipedia wiki.org//Sturgeon. Decisions were made to enjoy the restaurant the following evening on Saturday when there would be more time to enjoy the atmosphere with fewer chores. Even though I enjoy cooking I'd become bored with my own cuisine and it was great to discover that the River's Inn restaurant at the marina with its tastefully appointed nautical decor had excellent reviews.


Rain, rain and more rain on Sunday into Monday. Leaving the boat wasn't a consideration. It was just too wet. So the question became; "What do you do when cooped up on a boat for a couple of days in the rain?" Usually, sleep in a bit longer. Light the fireplace. Make a hearty breakfast of eggs, bacon, bagels, coffee. Read, practice guitar,read some more, practice guitar, clean and organize, pay bills, check email. Pretty much what people do at home when the weather is bad. Although, we don't have the option of going to the mall or watching TV...tomorrow the sun is supposed to shine and we're looking forward to moving across the river to Yorktown to explore our new home for the day.
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Location:Virginia


Friday, October 5, 2012

Fishing Bay Yacht Club, Jackson Creek, Deltaville

The last time I recall being in Deltaville Simple Life was dragging her anchor in a thunderstorm that had popped up during the night in a place called Godfrey Bay. That was in the spring of 2004 on our return trip from the Bahamas when we hurriedly ducked into the Piankatank River to seek refuge from impending storm warnings. I distinctly remember seeing a green glowing day marker #11 as I nervously flashed a spotlight over Simple Life's stern while she dragged toward it. With blinding rain pelting my face I tried to keep her powering forward against the wind as Joe wrestled with anchors on the bow in darkness. The boat was precariously close to the mark before the second anchor deployment finally hooked.
Needless to say when Joe planned our layover in Deltaville a few days ago to pick up our general delivery mail memories of our previous encounter were conjured up. As far as I was concerned, there was no apparent reason to stay in Deltaville...This time I was pleasantly surprised. Hospitality abounds in Deltaville!

Surprisingly, on the approach from Chesapeake Bay into Jackson Creek we spotted brown pelicans and pods of dolphins that seemed to welcome us as we entered the bay. The approach to the anchorage in the dredged eight foot channel was a bit unnerving in that it zigzagged through areas with one to two feet of water on either side. Once inside the anchorage basin in Jackson Creek not far from the "north south" route on the Chesapeake was both scenic with beautiful homes, abundant birdlife and well protected. Bald Eagles soared overhead occasionally plucking an unsuspecting fish from the creek and Great Blue Herons waded onshore in search of wayward crabs. Dozens of Monarch Butterflies in straight line formations passed by on their migration south to Mexico.

Simple Life was anchored just off the Fishing Bay Yacht Club which has only docks with one powerboat at the dock in a sea of masts. It seems to be a racing yacht club and the number of J-Class sailboats outnumber any others. Fishing Bay Yacht Club offers reciprocating rights to members of yacht clubs from out of town. This generous offering includes one free night's dockage water, electricity and use of all facilities. Since it was near sunset, Joe chose to anchor upon arrival and wait for morning to inquire about dockage. The anchor was weighed around 9:00 AM the following morning after Joe called the dock master to inquire about availability. The dock master answered his cell phone said it was his day off, but that there wasn't a problem with dockage. He instructed Joe to tie off at a T-dock on the end and said, "Make yourselves at home." He then asked the name of our yacht club and was quite impressed that we'd come all the way from Rhode Island. He told Joe to be sure to head up to the main clubhouse to sign the guest book.

Simple Life needed water, charged batteries and a bath and so did we. There were three choices of buildings where we could take showers. The impressive newly constructed main clubhouse which was commissioned in 2002, Fannie's House which was closer to where the boat was docked or a smaller facility on the opposite side of the manicured grounds.

After a couple of hours of scrubbing the boat and refilling the water tanks we did make ourselves at home. There were no other transient boaters there and no members at the clubhouse. Fannie's house essentially became our condo for the day. I found a great book to read in the library and Joe perused a cruising guide to Chesapeake Bay. The house had a full kitchen, two showers, a living room, dining area all overlooking a screened porch and the docks.
On Thursday I called the Deltaville Market to inquire about transportation for shopping. A congenial manager offered transportation and told me to call the following morning and she would send a car to pick us up at the town dock and drive us back afterward. I was relieved. The food supplies had dwindled and were in need of re-provisioning. We'd been traveling leisurely and stopping for days at a time in creeks with no opportunities for provisioning. When eating three meals a day on a boat resupplying is needed once a week.

This morning after a spectacular sunrise; occasionally I do get up early enough to witness one. Simple Life made her way back to the Chesapeake escorted by a few pods of dolphins as they broke the surface off her bow in a calm sea. Our next stop will be Yorktown on the York River. We'd heard positive comments about the area and thought we'd explore. Now that it's October like the cool northerlies that have yet to appear, our traveling pace will quicken. The cold will eventually chase us south and the plan is to be in Belle Haven, North Carolina before November 1. After that date our insurance will clear us for the departure south of Cape Hatteras, North Carolina and we'll be on our way.
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Location:Deltaville, Virginia

Monday, October 1, 2012

Washington DC

We crossed the Potomac River last week and anchored in the Glebe off the Coan River which is off the Potomac River. If all of this sounds complicated it is! Chesapeake Bay is huge. Rivers off Chesapeake Bay are the size of bays in New England and creeks off the rivers are the size of some of our favorite destinations similar to Salt Pond in South Kingston, Wickford or Bristol, RI.
A few weeks ago we had considered sailing up the Potomac River to tour Washington, DC but decided that it would take too much time away from the "north south" sailing route. Three days up, a few days touring and a three day return to the Chesapeake was more time than we could afford. While anchored in Annapolis and investigating transportation options it was apparent that a day trip from Annapolis was an alternative. The tourist information office was most helpful. We hopped a small commuter bus from a stop in front of social services for $5.00 which brought us to the metro station. The metro stops are all along the Washington Mall and exits stop at all of the national  monuments and museums.



As we escalated the subway it was such a thrill to see the Washington Monument. Public transportation definitely has its perks.


I had been through DC but had never spent time exploring the city. This was my opportunity. Joe asked what I wanted to see. Well of course the Washington Monument, the White House, the Lincoln Memorial, the Vietnam Veterans Memorial, the WWII Memorial, the Capital!


I didn't realize how much time this would encompass. I also had an ancillary list for the day; the Holocaust Museum, the Smithsonian, the Newseum! We accomplished all of the outdoor goals and I realized we would need to visit numerous times to see everything on my list.




In the short amount of time that we were in DC I did acquire a "flavor" of the city. At least now I realize many more visits are in order to see all that I'd planned. We'll return in the spring with a smaller itinerary. I'll choose one museum, we'll have a leisurely lunch in a sidewalk cafe, ride the metro back to the Simple Life and plan our next visit.


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Location:Washington DC