Green Turtle Cay, Bahamas

Double rainbow over Black Sound, Green Turtle Cay, Bahamas

   Even though weather has been less than desirable it is somewhat a relief to be settled in the protection of Black Sound in Green Turtle Cay, Abaco. It has been extremely windy for days with gradient wind in the high 20's with gusts to 30 and above. A rare Derecho inflicted winds from 50-over 100 mph in the Exuma Cays a few days ago. Boats lost anchors and chain and many sustained damage from being cast ashore.
 

A serious game of double 12 dominoes in
process aboard Simple Life. No TV, no internet...

The Loyalist Monument at Green Turtle Cay celebrating
those who were loyal to England during the Revolutionary
War between the States and England.
Photo by Joe Boulay

Joe checking the menu at The Wrecking Tree Restaurant where he remembered having the best conch burgers ever during our visit in 2004.
(they were just as good in 2016)

     A few days ago, a short walk ashore reacquainted us with the small settlement of New Plymouth. It's the only settlement on the island. We last visited here in 2004. It seems not much has changed. Things still move slowly here on Green Turtle Cay. The Batelco station is opened one day a week on Thursday. Joe waited in a long line with everyone else in the settlement to buy a SIM card for our phone. At least we have have intermittent Wifi for communication. Joe was able to call his mom after we'd been here for more than a week.

     Last year there were so many weather fronts and so few crossings during January that we made the decision this year to cross whenever the opportunity was positive. Our crossing from Lake Worth was relatively tranquil in the sense that the seas were benign, there was enough wind to motor sail at 6.5 knots and we even sailed at times for hours with no engine. The entire trip took 30+ hours. Lake Worth and the Abacos were not our usual choice for crossing at this time of year, but with the unpredictable weather patterns from El Niño we began questioning "What is usual or normal anymore? Take what you get and go with it."

The teak in the main salon oiled and beautiful.
This is our dining table in the folded position.
The Dickinson fireplace is mounted next to it. 

My Nissan Thermal Slow Cooker
in the galley. Meatballs & sauce ready
in six hours.

     Boat projects that have been neglected for months have become priority since we have been aboard due to weather. Much needed interior teak oiling has become my manifesto. Each day I work on a specific section. Joe has taken another look at the AIS installation and made modifications. This morning I cooked a large pot of meatballs, sausages and homemade sauce with fresh basil, oregano and Italian parsley from my onboard garden at 10:00 AM. The contents were transferred to my Nissan Thermal Slow Cooker for the remainder of the afternoon. This is a wonderful addition to any boaters cookware since no electricity is needed. Dinner will be served at 6:00 PM. Joe also set up our rain catcher since 2-3 inches of rain are forecast tomorrow. So far, we've captured 5 gallons with intermittent rain showers. We'll see what tomorrow brings.

The beach at Gillum Bay where we enjoy beach combing for
sanddollars and sea biscuits.

Joe equipped with backpack, snorkel & mask
enjoying the beach at Green Turtle Cay.

     For some reason the crossing seemed to settle us. We have arrived. We have crossed and the anxiety that accompanies the crossing has subsided. Now we will explore, beach comb, swim, snorkel and fish. There are no plans now. No calendar, no place we have to be. It feels good. This is why we sail the Bahamas and for now Green Turtle Cay is home.


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Timing is Everything

Headed out for the deep blue ocean. Crossing the Gulf Stream
on January 1, 2016

    The alarm rang at 6:30 Thursday morning. It's one of those windey non electric kinds that scares the crap out of you when it rings. It was still dark and its aggravating discordance permeated the cabin. Knowing it would eventually stop ringing gave me solace. Joe was already up and out of bed. From the aft cabin I could hear the clangorous sounds of the assembly of the stovetop percolator clinking against the galley sink. A somewhat familiar and comforting sound knowing Joe had begun the morning's coffee. Within a short time I heard the SSB radio's granulated static tune up signaling Chris Parker's Bahamas forecast. For some reason after all the odd cabin sounds modulated I immediately fell back to sleep, but did awaken periodically to hear a few snippets of information pertaining to our crystal ball future...one being Chris's high confidence forecast for a Gulf Stream crossing to the Bahamas on Friday!

     After savoring a cup of Joe it was time to get serious. We were now in preparation mode. Mooring lines were dropped and Simple Life was steered in toward the fuel dock in a driving rain squall for a diesel top off and much needed water fill. The squall lasted only a few minutes and we were ready to begin fueling. Next stop? Lake Worth, Palm Beach where we planned to anchor on New Year's Eve staging for a hop off early morning on Friday along with an overnight passage to somewhere in the Bahamas. As of departure we knew only that we were headed offshore. Plans were to see how strong the winds and current were and only thereafter to determine our arrival plans.

Chuck & Sandy SVSummer Wind, Joe & Michele SV Simple Life
Kaye & TJ SV Shearwater after enjoying
Christmas dinner at Mulligan's, Vero Beach

     Actually, this is quite a strategy for us. Originally, back in the beginning of December, we formulated an action plan to head south to somewhere around Miami and cross from there. That didn't work out. High winds have kept most cruisers in anchorages stateside. We hung out in Vero Beach for six weeks! I love Vero, but since we are also cruising sailors...felt it was time to move on. Although, Vero has much to offer cruising sailors with free bus transportation, great shopping, beaches and numerous restaurants. Certainly enough to stay entertained. Vero Beach has acquired the nick name Velcro Beach for a reason. It's easy to make excuses to stay here. Even when a high confidence Chris Parker forecast has been presented Vero tends to tug at you. There always seems to be that little voice whispering, "Stay a few more days...you can work on boat projects, they have showers & laundry here, things can be delivered, you can shop here...TJMaxx is on the bus line."

Joe at the helm notice the tanker and another sailboat in
the background. I was checking them on AIS.

     We began our Gulf Stream crossing on Friday January 1, at 7:00 AM. It's now 11:00 AM, January 2, 2016 and I'm happy to report that Simple Life has arrived safely across the Stream, the Little Bahama Banks and into the anchorage at Green Turtle Cay, Bahamas. The crossing went well with calm seas and at times wind enough to sail without listening to the engine. Joe will head in shortly to clear Customs with our paperwork for our 90 day visa and cruising permit.

Screen shot of the AIS laptop display ( I added black arrows
for illustration purposes)

   

Happy to report that my
boat garden did fine during
the crossing.

   















      My Christmas gift (AIS) worked well. So well in fact that both Joe and I managed to relax enough on this passage to actually sleep when our watches were over. Joe slept so soundly that a good shaking didn't wake him after I'd spotted approaching lights on the horizon which became increasingly brighter as we neared. A quick check on AIS and no boats came up on the screen. Same result with radar. Befuddled, I attempted to wake Joe again by shaking his shoulders, calling to him and knocking on the cabin ceiling. My first thought was, "He's dead! " I'm obviously a pessimist...after a quick check for breath and pulse (both positive), I ran quickly up the cockpit steps and continued to check the vessel headed in our direction. In a bit of a panic I began banging on the fiberglass from the helm station in the cockpit. Joe groggily stumbled out. "What's going on?" I pointed out the lights. After peering through binoculars and checking the chart he said, "I think that's Fox town on Little Abaco Island. I think the bright lights are Christmas lights on houses." I guess I should learn to trust the new equipment. Maybe I'll sleep even better next time. I know Joe will.





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A Simple Life Christmas in Vero Beach

A view of Simple Life's electrical nightmare
at the navigation station.

     All I want for Christmas is AIS...and a hand held fiberglass buffer. No diamond baubles needed for a sailor woman. You're probably wondering what The heck I'm talking about. AIS is the abbreviation of Automatic Identification System. A tracking device which is installed with "great difficulty by the captain (Joe)" and must be hard wired on the boat. It is a wonderful invention in that it allows other both commercial & pleasure boats that have the system to identify Simple Life and it allows us to "see" them on a laptop and identify their vessel as well.

     Joe and I sail offshore as often as possible when weather cooperates. Every time we're offshore during overnight passages it seems ships come out of nowhere. That's when it becomes stressful. It seems we never spot a ship during daylight. Curses! We have radar aboard Simple Life which gives us blips pertaining to objects (hopefully ships) nearby. It does not provide names of ships, their size nor whether we may be on a collision course with the vessel. AIS does provide this information and more making travel offshore at night much safer and less nerve-wracking. Those are the key words, LESS STRESSFUL. Imagine yourself driving at night with no headlights on the car, no streetlights, no road and just for kicks and giggles throw in some fog. Suddenly, off in the distance maybe for or five miles away lights are spotted...or were they?

     Fast forward to sailing Simple Life offshore. We spot a blip on radar. Something four miles to starboard. Opps, it's gone...oh there it is again. "Joe! call the ship! Ask if they see us." No response from the ship (we give a Lat Lon position over VHF radio, but receive no response from the ship. It keeps coming! Let's change course, we'll take its stern. Still no response." Last spring during a 36 hour passage from the Bahamas while returning to the States we spotted over 15 cargo ships and three giant cruise ships. One passed so close astern of Simple Life that we could hear the music and watch TV on the giant screen on the top deck all while under sail in 20 knots of wind!

The AIS transponder installed & working!

The VHF antenna splitter for the AIS 

Christmas 2015: Michele gets AIS! Christmas 2015: Joe gets to install AIS! With fingers crossed we both suffer through a few days of numerous phone calls with the AIS manufacture with Simple Life's electrical system torn apart along with lots of heated cursing. Joe's favorite being, "Come on you bastard!" I chuckle every time I hear it, swearing is so out of character for him. Captain calm. Although, I feel his pain. I must admit I don't care what the Ten Commandments say I swear often and rather enjoy it! I'm Irish.

   

Relaxing after a successful job well done.

     On Christmas Eve...a bright full moon lit the harbor and all was still. Not a creature was stirring, not even a mouse. We killed that little bugger last September. The good news? AIS is up and running! Simple Life is transmitting and receiving. The captain, Joe, felt quite pleased with himself and settled in for a long winters...sail, admiring the nearly full moon with a cigar and noggin of rum. Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night!

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Location:Vero Beach, Florida

The Holidays in Vero Beach

Robin Clay, Joe Boulay & Bob Clay
Kiwi friends we met cruising 12 years ago
in the Bahamas have returned for another season.

   

     The official onset of the holiday season for the crew of Simple Life and more than two hundred other boaters kicked off with the annual Thanksgiving celebration at the Vero Beach City Marina where a high energy sensation of revelry was in the air.
   

Bentley Smith & Michele Boulay
Photo by Hayden Cocoran

Celebrating Thanksgiving with friends

     


     At this time of year which is for many the start of the migration season it's not so much about what is happening at the moment, but more about possibilities for the upcoming season in both south Florida and the Bahamas. It's about reuniting with old friends whom we haven't seen in awhile as well as meeting new people. 

Michele with a new fan of the Bodhran
Photo by Joe Boulay

It's about the excitement and thrill of catching the first Mahi of the season along with unanticipated events that are already in the stars, but to us are unfathomable at this time. 

The Salty Paws performing with friends
Photo by Joe Boulay

   

   

Bentley Smith, Michele Boulay & Jim Austin
performed after Thanksgiving dinner in Vero Beach
Photo by Hayden Cocoran

     In some manner I think we who sail oceans are excitement junkies. We relish the unknown and sometimes uncomfortable situations in which we sometimes find ourselves. I don't know all the reasons why we have chosen this particular lifestyle, but I do know that the close camaraderie among boaters is what unifies us all as good friends.



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Location:Vero Beach, Florida

Captivated by Charleston again

 

Dawn in Charleston Harbor

     This blog backtracks a few ports since we have already arrived safely in Vero Beach, Florida, but our stay in Charleston was as always interesting and noteworthy. I thought you might enjoy reading this latest entry.

     Have you experienced a city that seems to emanate a radiance while whispering a certain je ne sais quoi? Charleston has this effect upon me. Warm balmy evenings, rustling leaves with miniature snapping live oak acorns under foot, historic architecture and the mannerly ways of the locals. Charleston exudes a fusion of these and other warm attributes that seem to flourish effortlessly.

Historic Charleston

 

Bluegrass musicians entertaining at the farmers market

The Emanuel African Methodist
Episcopal Church

   


   







   




     While enjoying one of our leisurely meanders through town on a warm, brilliant Saturday afternoon we enjoyed the weekly farmers market in Marion Square. Numerous vendors selling everything from farm fresh vegetables to unusual ceramic ware enjoyed brisk business as townspeople stocked up on provisions. On our return to the Simple Life armed with fresh local tomatoes we passed by the sobering site of Emanuel African Methodist Episcopal Church where on June 17, 2015 nine worshippers were shot dead during services. It was difficult to fathom that on a calm, balmy evening during weekly bible study such a horrendous terror attack overtook this beautiful city only a few month ago.  The residents of Charleston are resilient. They want to move on. The church is a constant reminder to the rest of humanity the reality of the world in which we now share.



   

Happy hour at Pearlz Oyster Bar

 On a lighter note our recent layover in Charleston did not disappoint. World class restaurants, lovely southern architecture, a fantastic Saturday farmers market, perfect Autumn weather with a couple of rainy days for working on boat projects and of course most importantly, great local music. Charleston is a small peninsula city ideal for walking. Its perimeter can be easily covered within a couple of hours. A stroll toward the center meanders through lovely restored historic neighborhoods ripe for exploration.

Oysters by the dozen at Pearlz

Chef Blair preparing Shrimp & Grits

     Since we were in a city famed for fabulous southern cuisine I decided to register for a cooking demonstration at Charleston Cooks a well known store on East Bay Street specializing in gadgets and cookware along with everything and anything a cook might desire in the kitchen. The store also offers cooking classes and demonstrations each day in the well appointed classroom kitchen.

Michele, Dan & Daria

   

     Anyone who follows my blog knows that I am partial to local southern cuisine especially shrimp and grits. I have sampled numerous versions of this southern dish at several restaurants throughout the city. I even own a cookbook exclusively featuring shrimp and grits. Oh, no...I'm starting to sound a bit like Forrest Gump. Getting back to shrimp and grits. Charleston Cooks offered a demonstration class with Chef Blair preparing shrimp and grits with bourbon pecan pie for dessert. I registered immediately. Later that evening we met up with with friends Dan and Daria from MV Gypsea at my absolute favorite restaurant in Charleston Amen Street Raw Bar & Restaurant. Knowing that Daria is a great cook I mentioned that I'd registered for a cooking demonstration. On Friday we met at Charleston Cooks at 2:00 PM and procured front row seats. The perfect setting to watch Chef Blair work his magic while first preparing the bourbon pecan pie then walking us through the shrimp and grits recipe. During the demonstration overhead video cameras positioned directly over the stove offered us a birds eye view into the pots. The best part of this event came at the end when Chef Blair prepared eight dinners of shrimp and grits for the participating guests along with a glass of wine and bourbon pecan pie.

Elaine & Lawrence with a new friend at the
Natural History Museum

   

Yikes! Check out those teeth

      A surprise treat this season evolved when our friends Elaine and Lawrence arrived in Charleston aboard Elle & I. Elaine introduced us to her childhood friend Gail and Gail's husband Dr. Jim Carew who invited us to a private informative tour of the Mace Brown Natural History Museum at the College of Charleston where Jim is the museum director and curator. One of the most fascinating exhibits featured the Evolution of Whales. The exhibit spans a 50 million year time period with several evolutionary whale skulls on display. Several specimens in the exhibits were collected in and around the Charleston area. Gail who is an informative guide in her own rite is clearly as enthusiastic as Jim when discussing the exhibits.

Joe and Dr. Jim Carew check out an exhibit

A fossilized shrimp specimen

   

Joe managed to catch a couple of dozen live shrimp with a
cast net off the Charleston docks during our stay in town.

    Charleston never disappoints and once again has succeeded in captivating my heart. After our wonderful visit we looked forward to heading offshore with Vero Beach in our sites to celebrate this special Thanksgiving with our family of friends in our close knit sailing community.


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Location:Charleston, South Carolina

Offshore Passages Along the Eastern Seaboard

Sunrise on Charleston Harbor
Photo by Joe Boulay

     This season has been surprisingly favorable for offshore passages along the eastern seaboard. Lately it seems that northerly winds have predominated the autumn months which is not unusual, but they have also been relatively benign with only a few minor squalls and fewer strong weather fronts. This has enabled more cruising sailboats to venture offshore relying less on the Intracoastal Waterway route.

   

An early morning hike at Cape Lookout, NC
Photo by Joe Boulay

     Simple Life has taken advantage of this offshore travel season. We've been able to hop off from Beaufort at Cape Lookout, North Carolina to Wrightsville Beach, NC by leaving Cape Lookout at 3:00 AM with an arrival in Wrightsville before sunset. This passage enabled us to travel one day instead of two which would be the norm along the ICW. The following day we motored along the ICW from Wrightsville Beach to Southport, NC taking a dock for the evening in preparation for an offshore departure the next morning which would encompass an all day and overnight passage to Charleston, South Carolina.

     Charleston has always been such a great spot to layover, rest and enjoy the town. We booked a week in port this fall. When our stay had come to an end a couple of days ago the weather once again cooperated and we hopped offshore for a 29 hour passage from Charleston, SC to Fernandina Beach, Florida!

Joe passed out after a long haul offshore.
Photo by Michele Boulay

 Offshore travel can be exhausting and usually is when the passage lasts just over 24 hours. There isn't enough time for the crew (Joe & me) to settle down and get into a rhythm of watches. Night watches usually work well when the crew is out for a couple of days. Cat naps are one thing, but they don't allow enough time for much needed rest and recovery. For this reason arrivals in port are so welcomed and we often pass out after grabbing a quick coffee and hearty breakfast. Joe actually checked my breathing when I succumbed after this latest passage. Although, I think he caught on within a short time when a period of sonorous snoring began. All video of this particular event has and will forever be deleted from YouTube. Sorry for the inconvenience.

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Location:S Front St,Fernandina Beach,United States

Ol' Front Porch Music Festival

 
      Saturday October 17, 2015 was the date of the 2nd annual Ol' Front Porch Music Festival in the quaint town of Oriental, NC. A town where Ol' front porches adorned with pumpkins and corn stalks are the distinguished architectural element embellishing nearly every home in town.


   

     The filtered sunshine warming the autumn day
was picture perfect for a lazy stroll along the

The Carmonas performance was a crowd pleaser

typically quiet streets of Oriental and for stopping to enjoy the melodic phrases straining from 21 predetermined front porches where crowds gathered in anticipation of the down home sounds of Appalachian folk, sea chanteys, gospel and bluegrass.

 

The Salty Paws
Michele (Bodhran), Bentley (banjo), Jim (guitar), Dave (guitar)

     This year The Salty Paws Band was invited back for a second performance on the front porch of The Bean on the waterfront. Bentley, Jim, Dave and Michele were scheduled to perform on the porch from 1:00-2:30 PM. We geared up early prior to our engagement in order to be able to enjoy the festival's diverse assemblage of opening acts starting at 11:00 AM.


   

A few members of the Uhoos

The Dixie Strings

     The festival opened with The Uhoos (Ukulele Hoalohas of Oriental) a fun loving group of 30 members who have been playing a diverse genre of music together for two years. After a stroll from Hodges to Broad Street Joe and I also enjoyed the performances by Dixie Strings a youthful talented bluegrass/gospel group on mandolin, fiddle, guitar and stand-up bass and The Flat Mountain Dulcimers. We had just enough time to enjoy a few tunes by Green Creek Bluegrass at The Old Hotel front porch before it was time for our set up and tune up at The Bean at 1:00 PM.

The Flat Mountain Dulcimers

The Salty Paws
Michele, Bentley, Jim and Dave performing at The Bean

   
     The Salty Paws Band was able to play through our entire playlist including favorites such as Fox on the Run, Mary Ellen Carter, Whiskey in the Jar, Rant & Roar along with numerous other sea chanteys as well as a fusion of genres. A few encore pieces such as bluegrass/gospel I'll Fly Away and the well known favorite Rolling Home were performed to the delight of the festival audience. At times there were over 50 roving festival attendees enjoying our porch concert!

   

The Carmonas

     When all was said and done we reflected back upon a great experience. Perfect weather, talented
bands, good food and good friends. Life is and has been, so far (we're cautiously optimistic)...even better than expected!

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Location:Oriental, North Carolina