Return to Chesapeake Bay

View of Norfolk from Portsmouth, Virginia

 
     This spring while sailing north along Chesapeake Bay we learned a few valuable lessons due to a smorgasbord of weather events. Even though Chesapeake Bay is nearly an enclosed body of water it commands a certain degree of respect. Southern Chesapeake Bay is a large body of water with an expanse of approximately 35 miles across near the mouth of the Potomac River. When winds kick up over 12-15 knots in any direction combined with an opposing tide, an uncomfortable short, steep chop builds quickly with the occasional wave break over the bow and dodger. Wind on the nose can seem like a never ending slog to weather.

Garden in Portsmouth Virginia

   

Greenhouse door in Freemason District, Norfolk

Fishing Bay Yacht Club, Deltaville, Virginia

   



















     After spending a few relaxing days in Portsmouth and Norfolk, Virginia the time had come to continue traveling north. Fishing Bay Yacht Club in Jackson Creek was our first overnight stop along the Chesapeake. Most mornings Joe monitors NOAA weather broadcasts over the VHF radio. I'm usually working on my "beauty sleep" but, one particular morning I was rudely awakened by the words...tropical storm warnings for southern Chesapeake Bay! I sat up in bed shrieking, "Did I just hear tropical storm warnings or was I dreaming?" "Where the heck did this come from? We haven't heard anything about a tropical storm!" It seemed that Tropical Storm Andrea the first named storm of the 2013 Atlantic hurricane season had formed from a trough of low pressure situated over the Gulf of Mexico during the afternoon of June 5th. The storm had sustained winds of 45 mph and was forecast to move rapidly up the eastern seaboard arriving in lower Chesapeake Bay the following day.

The pool at FBYC overlooking Fishing Bay

      It was late spring and I was confident that the frequent cold fronts and storms we'd experienced during the winter had finally ended. We'd certainly experienced our share of weather situations this season with gale force winds in Oxford in September, Hurricane Sandy in North Carolina in October, numerous cold fronts during the winter in the Florida Keys and tornado warnings this spring. I reasoned with myself, "What's one more storm?" We actually had the audacity to think we could outrun Andrea two days prior to her arrival by heading north to Solomon's Island. From our vantage point at Jackson Creek with white caps crashing over a shoal area we assumed that once we'd rounded the peninsular of protective land and settled into deeper water the situation would improve. Wrong! The situation worsened. Breaking seas increased in size, and the wave period was short. Simple Life was making little to no headway. Joe tacked off hoping to make progress, but it was evident that we needed to turn the boat around and head back to a sheltered anchorage.

Simple Life and Chanticleer

   
     We prepared for Andrea by securing Simple Life behind a peninsular of land in Jackson Creek in Deltaville, Virginia with hopes that the land would protect us from oncoming wind and waves. Everyone in the Deltaville area was fortunate. By the time of Andrea's arrival at New Point Comfort, Virginia in lower Chesapeake Bay winds were reduced to 35 mph accompanied by buckets of rainfall. Simple Life survived the storm without a scratch. When Andrea headed north pummeling the east coast with serious flooding we decided to make a run for Tipers Creek in the Great Wicomico River where we planned to rendezvous with cruising friends Bob and Pat of Chanticleer who were kind enough to invite us to stay at their dock and lovely home in Wicomico Church, Virginia.



     Our rendezvous with Bob and Pat was a welcomed reunion
since we had last seen them in Boot Key Harbor in the Florida Keys. Upon arrival they offered to take us grocery shopping in town, refill our propane tank and planned a special dinner for us that evening. Pat even offered to let me catch up on laundry chores while enjoying dinner. The following evening Pat invited their friends Bob and Julie, another cruising couple who also have a home on Tipers Creek to join us for a barbecue dinner party on their screened porch overlooking the creek. Bob and Julie have been cruising to the Bahamas and west coast of Florida for a number of years and we all enjoyed trading "war stories" of our experiences living aboard.

Pat and Bob at their home on Tipers Creek

     We made plans to move on the following day since we had over 400 miles to travel to reach our summer destination in Rhode Island. Our enjoyable journey was beginning to evolve into a delivery. Both Joe and I felt the urgency to continue moving north and hoped to stay on the move as long as weather held. Since our departure from the Keys in April, we'd traveled 29 days. Real life began creeping back into our lives whether we liked it or not. The freedom that we'd come to enjoy and expect during the fall and winter months began to fade since responsibilities back in Rhode Island began to take hold becoming our new reality.

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Music Jam in Portsmouth, Virginia

Dyad, Simple Life and Salty Paws at Portsmouth dock

It was a long day of motoring along the ICW as Simple Life made her approach toward the free dock at Great Bridge, Virginia. Joe peered anxiously through binoculars to see if there was enough space along the rickety dock for an overnight tie up. It was late afternoon and there were no anchorages nearby. He spotted a huge unpainted aluminum motor vessel that resembled a ferry from a distance. Joe adjusted the lenses and read the name... DYAD. "Guess who that is? It's Dyad from the Cruisheimer's Net!" It seemed that we'd finally caught up with one of the voices of the single sideband radio Cruiseheimer's Net Dave and Kathi aboard their motor vessel Dyad. Kathi designs and maintains the Bigdumboat website and Dave is the chief developer of Open CPN navigational software see both at www.bigdumboat.com. As we approached the dock they introduced themselves and assisted us with our lines. Kathi later invited us to join them for sundowners aboard Dyad along with the crew of Salty Paws, Jim and Bentley. Salty Paws, a large sailing catamaran was docked directly in front of Dyad but, was obscured from our view due to Dyad's enormity (a Passage Maker 48).

Dave of MV DYAD

Since installing our SSB radio a few years ago as one of Simple Life's numerous upgrades for long distance cruising it seemed that both Dyad and Salty Paws were fixtures on the airwaves. We'd participate in the Cruisheimer's Net by checking into 8152KHz at 8:30 AM on weekends. On Saturday and Sunday mornings during the summer sailing season in New England we monitored broadcasts while listening intently and memorizing boat names during morning check ins hoping someday to connect with those who were already cruising full time. Two of those memorable voices who also volunteered their time as net controllers were Dyad and Salty Paws. After monitoring their check ins and taking note of their numerous ports of call we felt as though we already knew these cruisers and we looked forward to meeting the people that went with the voices.

Bentley and Jim of Salty Paws
https://www.youtube.com/saltyPaws

Michele, Dave, Bentley and Jim performing in the park

For some reason, when cruisers get together work lives are rarely the topic of conversation. Though, we did discuss art and music. Jim Austin http://www.jimages.com of Salty Paws is a professional photographer and both he and Bentley are musicians! Dave also plays guitar along with Kathi on the percussive egg. The following day, after our arrival at the free dock in Portsmouth, Virginia, Jim invited me to play my bodhran (Irish drum) with the band. I was thrilled, I'd brought my drum along on this trip with hopes of getting together with other musicians. When I asked where we'd be playing they said that they usually performed in the park area adjacent to the dock in Portsmouth. Jim said that they primarily perform for fun and camaraderie and that occasionally they open their case and collect enough money to buy the band a few beers! The music ranged from traditional sea shanties to folk rock pieces such as Freight Train along with an original song written by Bentley on the banjo.
After reflection upon this new cruising experience we felt a delightful sense of renewal. At least for now all of the hardship and trials along the way seemed trivial and distant. The new friendships and connections we build within this cruising community enrich our lives and reward us with new adventures and episodes of fulfillment.

Photos by Joe Boulay

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Apology

I just wanted to check in with my faithful followers and explain why I haven't blogged since June 1.  I have received numerous messages asking about our whereabouts. We are still out there cruising and did not sink. I needed to update my operating system and couldn't find a Wifi signal during our travels that was reliable enough to update the system. All of my updated software failed. Fortunately, I was able to update the system today and new blogs should be posted soon. Thank you for checking in on our travels. Much has happened aboard the Simple Life since my last blog at Okracoke Island and I will be posting within the coming days. Thank you for following our blog.

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Okracoke Island, Outer Banks

     The Island beckoned, the weather cooperated and the crew of Simple Life decided to divert off course from the ICW toward Okracoke, a remote barrier island south of Cape Hatteras on the Outer Banks of North Carolina. Okracoke is accessible only by boat or plane and is the most isolated of all the islands along the Outer Banks. It is also the least populated island with under 1,000 residents who reside in Okracoke Village. The remainder of the 17 miles of low lying land has been designated part of the Cape Hatteras National Seashore as well as a national park thus preserving its natural beauty and protecting it from development and exploitation.


       The decision to sail to the Outer Banks and back requires a good weather window. Okracoke's thread-like tendril lies east from the mainland across Pamlico Sound bordered on its eastern edge by the Atlantic Ocean. When looking at a chart Pamlico Sound is deceiving. It doesn't appear to be the expansive body of water that it is, but the Sound is the second largest fully enclosed body of salt water in the United States with Chesapeake Bay taking first place. Surprisingly, sailing Pamlico Sound feels more akin to making an offshore ocean passage. The mainland slips away within an hour or so and the Sound becomes a 360 degree unadulterated watery horizon line. It feels like being at sea and the near sea level island pops up rather suddenly on approach. Pamlico sound is shallow with most depths hovering around 15 feet. Because of the shallow depths a steep chop can develop with winds of 12-15 knots. It can become downright dangerous when winds increase to higher ranges. We saw the results of the what 20-25 knot winds can do as we neared the channel to Okracoke's Silver Lake anchorage after a blustery weekend. A sailboat with its flapping, tattered 

Sunken sailboat outside Big Foot Slough Channel

mainsail and jib still raised was aground and sunk on a shoal outside the channel. The channel into the Silver Lake anchorage is well marked, but must be followed since two and three foot shoals lie to either side.

Okracoke Lighthouse view from Silver Lake

    

     

     The village beckoned after dropping the hook in the uncrowded, idyllic harbor. Initially, we had difficulty locating the dinghy dock since it was obscured by a house boat, but after a few inquiries we were informed of its location and where to tie up. The village is ideal for strolling. Bars, restaurants, shops and a small grocery are within easy walking distance. All businesses are privately owned and there are no chains on the island. We'd read a few restaurant reviews and one that came highly recommended on Claiborne Young's Cruisers' Net was the Back Porch Restaurant with its signature seafood dishes and delightful eclectic cuisine. I was anticipating a night on the town and the restaurant sounded perfect. We also hoped to stop into one of the local pubs to listen to the island's own nationally acclaimed bluegrass band, Molasses Creek. Unfortunately, they were not scheduled to perform until Thursday evening at the Deepwater Theater and we'd planned our departure on Wednesday. We've enjoyed the bands' performances in the past and purchased several of their CD's during our last visit to Okracoke nine years ago.





         One of the best ways to explore Okracoke is on bicycles. There were numerous reasonable rental facilities in the village. We rented bikes for three hours to explore the village and ride out to the National Seashore. The beach was uncrowded and spectacular. It was voted the number one beach in the US in 2007. On the way to the beach we noticed a nearby roadside pub sign offering  $.50 raw oysters and $5.00 baskets of peel and eat shrimp! We knew where we were heading after the bike ride and beach visit.




     Wednesday morning dawned with clear skies and was pleasantly warm. Winds were forecast from the southwest, but at our departure time they still blew from the west. We hoped for a quick shift that would enable us to sail the entire 46 nautical miles from Okracoke to the town of Belhaven on the North Carolina mainland. After an hour of motoring into the wind it finally shifted to the southwest and picked up to 12-15 knots. The waves built up, but they were on our stern so we enjoyed a fast ride at over 7 knots for the remainder of the day.





     The trip to The Outer Banks was a welcomed "vacation" from our cruise north to find shelter during hurricane season. That may sound odd but, traveling along the ICW for days on end can become tiring and dealing with shoaling in so many areas can be stressful. It was fun to stop and enjoy Okracoke for a few days, recharge our batteries and not lose sight of what attracted us to cruising and why we have chosen this lifestyle. Sure it takes time to head off the beaten track and lose a few days of progress to the north, but as I always like to remind myself, "Not all those who wander are lost." (from The Riddle of Strider by JR Tolkien)



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Location:North Carolina

Long days Offshore and on the Intracoastal Waterway

   

Anchorage in Oxbow in the Waccamaw River

     When we looked back at our calendar this morning we were somewhat astounded that we'd traveled only twenty days since departing Boot Key Harbor in late April. For some reason it felt like many more days. We were initially delayed due to thunderstorms and squalls in Fort Lauderdale. But, since then the weather has improved by becoming more seasonable and we have been able to travel most days.

      After deciding to make it a short day yesterday, we motored only a few hours from Moorhead City, near Beaufort, NC to Cedar Creek at the mouth of the Neuse River near Oriental, NC. The winds were up at 20-25 knots with small craft warnings in Pamlico Sound. Rather than fight the sea conditions by crossing the river we decided to anchor in the creek until winds and seas settled down overnight.
   
     At times when we're in travel mode, as we are now it's difficult to recall where we've been and on occasion I have awakened not knowing exactly where I am. Ports of call seem to blend into each other only after a few weeks. This northern journey feels much different than the journey south. There is less excitement. The feeling is similar to returning home after a two week whirlwind vacation. Perhaps it has something to do with my reluctance to head back to a chillier climate. At any rate we have made good progress. Hopefully, my attitude will adjust as temperatures climb along the way.

Wild boars on the shoreline in northern Florida

     The scenery along the most stretches of the ICW in the south has been spectacular. Surprisingly, we've spotted an array of wild life from the usual deer, eagles, dolphins and exotic birdlife to unusual wild boars scavenging along the shoreline in northern Florida.

My GV Rubio Solista classical guitar

 






      We've anchored in isolated wooded creeks, pristine rivers and bays where I've serenaded the wild life with my guitar skills. Often in many of our anchorages Simple Life has been the sole vessel. At this time of year most cruisers making this northern migration are farther north braving unstable weather and cooler temperatures that accompany the seasonal change.


   

Sunrise on Cedar Creek, NC
by Joe Boulay

     This afternoon we're in for a treat as we have reservations at a marina in Oriental, NC. The River Dunes Marina comes highly recommended by fellow cruisers this season although the rates have been increased from $1.00 per foot to $1.50. One cruiser recommended the stop just for the spectacular showers! Apparently, they have numerous jets...we cruisers do crave a good shower. I'm also looking forward to washing the boat and taking advantage of the courtesy car for provisioning. If the weather cooperates we may take a side trip to across Pamlico Sound to Okracoke Island on the Outer Banks for a couple of days before continuing on to Chesapeake Bay. It seems new harbors beckon even while traveling north.

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Location:Oriental, North Carolina

Short time in Charleston

Center St. , Fernandina Beach, Florida

     When making the passage offshore from Fernandina Beach, Florida to Charleston, South Carolina the excitement of arrival at the inlet was tempered by its length. The entrance even short of the sea buoy can take a sailing vessel more than a couple of hours to reach the heart of Charleston Harbor depending on tides and currents.



     Our overnight passage was as good as could be expected. We sailed for awhile, motor sailed for awhile and decided to lower sails before nightfall rather than listen to a slamming boom and flapping sails. It would have been too dangerous to venture on deck to secure the main with the rolling sea state as the wind died down after dark. During a previous overnight passage one of our battens had poked through the sail and crashed onto the deck with a thunderous crack and we didn't want a repeat performance. The wayward batten was discovered on deck the following morning as we completed our passage through the St. Mary's inlet in Georgia..."Oh, that must have been that loud crash we heard during the night!"

     Overnight passages are exhausting when there are only two people on board. I find it difficult to get any quality rest when Joe is on watch and vise versa. For some reason after nightfall, creaks and groans in the boat are magnified. Imaginations are dilated as well! It becomes easier to understand the origin of the belief in creatures from the deep. Even though Joe is harnessed in the cockpit, I have imagined him falling over the side and being dragged to his death by the boat on autopilot until he's drowned. I'm afraid I won't hear his call for help. Therefore, I don't sleep or at best I sleep with one eye opened. When I'm on watch he at least tries to rest, but also checks my status every half hour or so. So much for trust. It was a long arduous night.

     Upon arrival in the harbor, the Charleston Harbor Marina assigned us to "The Megadock," we were the undersized boat among megayachts. One nice feature of this assignment was the convenience of fueling. There were several fueling stations along the dock making it easy to tie up for the night and refuel in one easy step. The City Marina also provided a shuttle to town and to the heart of the historic district every hour. Of course there also happened to be a daily run to West Marine at 11:00 AM. I always take advantage of opportunities for provisioning. After a nap we took the shuttle to Harris Teeter for groceries. This grocery store has an excellent meat selection. I had over an hour to shop before the shuttle picked us up. Upon arrival back at the marina, the staff actually delivered us and our groceries to Simple Life on a golf cart. Knowing this in advance was helpful. I stocked up on bulk items such as a case of water, beer and of course "Chateau Carton"
(a couple of boxes of wine) that would otherwise be too heavy to carry on foot.




     After all of the groceries were stored I marveled at my sense of peace and contentment. We're in Charleston, it's springtime! We should be checking out the sights, but I think our natural instincts kick in when living aboard. I always feel content when I have a full refrigerator, pantry and clean laundry. It makes me feel safe. Perhaps living aboard brings us closer to the understanding of exactly what our true human needs are. Food, shelter and of course clean sheets!




     Later that afternoon Joe and I took advantage of the shuttle to dine at Blossom's courtyard one of Charleston's premier nuveau cuisine restaurants. This was our reward for enduring the overnight passage. While in the low country I've been experimenting with recipes for shrimp and grits and I wanted to sample Blossom's specialty, creek shrimp with tasso over grits. It was delightful and the service was top notch.



     The following day with freshening breezes we momentarily considered heading offshore once again north to the Cape Fear inlet. Hmm...I wonder where the origin of the name Cape Fear came from? That would require a 20 hour offshore trip. After discussing it we made the decision to travel more leisurely up the ICW route to Winyah Bay and enjoy the sights along the Waccamaw River in springtime.





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Location:Charleston, South Carolina

Offshore from Florida to Charleston, South Carolina

     This morning at 6:30 AM we had a positive forecast from our weather router, Chris Parker. His forecast called for winds from the southwest in the 12-15 knot range with 2-4 foot seas offshore. Finally, all systems were "go." Sounds a bit like a space shuttle launch doesn't it? We've been waiting for weather and until today conditions have been unfavorable with high winds and seas. But, this morning Simple Life set sail out of the St. Mary's inlet on the Georgia-Florida border for Charleston, South Carolina. If conditions remain as expected the trip should be a treat! No shallows to concern us along the ICW in Georgia and the opportunity to make considerable distance north along the eastern seaboard. We'd hoped to track up to Beaufort, NC, but there is a potential for squalls with winds up to 40 knots on Friday morning due to near gale force winds off Cape Hatteras. We decided to play it safe and check into the Charleston inlet sometime after noon on Friday. This requires one overnight passage. Simple Life is making good speed as she's sailing from St. Mary's inlet to points north at 6.3 knots. The wind is up, seas are down and we're hoping conditions remain throughout the day and night.


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Location:Off Cumberland Island Georgia